Materials and tools

• Silver clay: Typically sold in lump, paste, or syringe forms. For beginners, fine silver clay (.999) is recommended because it is easier to fire with a torch.
• Non-stick surface: A Teflon sheet or a silicone mat prevents the clay from sticking. You can also use a special "clay balm".
• Acrylic roller and spacers: Rollers and strips of playing cards or acrylic spacers ensure the clay is rolled to an even thickness.
• Clay cutters or a needle tool: Used to cut shapes from your clay.
• Jeweller’s torch and firing surface: For firing small pieces, a handheld butane torch is sufficient. You will also need a heat-resistant surface, such as a soldering block.
• Brass brush: Used for polishing the piece after firing.
• Finishing tools: Sanding pads or papers, an agate burnisher, and polishing cloths are used to refine and shine your finished piece.
• Water and a paintbrush: Keeps the clay moist while you work and can be used to create a paste (slip) to join pieces

      Step-by-step instructions

      1. Prepare the clay

1. Condition the clay. Cut the amount of silver clay you need and work it in your hands until it becomes soft and pliable. Immediately reseal any unused clay in its original packaging with a damp wipe to prevent it from drying out.
2. Roll out the clay. Use an acrylic roller and spacers to roll the clay to your desired, even thickness on a non-stick surface. For pendants, a thickness of 3 to 5 playing cards is a good starting point.
3. Add texture (optional). Press a textured sheet, lace, or a natural object like a leaf into the clay to create an impression. You can also press your own fingerprint into the clay.
4. Cut your shape. Use a clay cutter or a needle tool to cut out your design. If you're making a pendant or charm, use a straw to create a hole for a jump ring. 
5. Dry the piece
6. Let your clay piece dry completely. You can let it air-dry naturally or speed up the process with a hot plate, food dehydrator, or even a hair dryer. The piece will be much more fragile once it's dry, so handle it carefully. 
7. Refine and sand
8. Once dry, use sanding pads and needle files to smooth edges and fix any bumps or imperfections. The final finish will largely depend on how well you sand at this stage. 
9. Fire the clay
10. Warning: Only fire in a well-ventilated area
11. Place the piece on a heatproof surface, such as a soldering block.
12. Torch the piece. Heat the clay with a handheld torch, holding the flame about 5 cm away at a 45-degree angle.
13. Burn off the binder. The organic binder will ignite and burn off, creating a small flame and smoke.
14. Sinter the silver. After the binder burns away, continue heating the piece. It will begin to glow a peach or orange colour. Maintain this glow for 2 to 5 minutes, depending on the piece's size, to allow the silver particles to fuse together (sinter).
15. Cool the piece. Allow the piece to cool completely before handling. 
16. Finish and Polish

1. Remove the white coating. After cooling, the fired piece will have a white, frosty appearance. Use a stiff brass brush to burnish the surface until it begins to shine.
2. Achieve a mirror finish (optional). Use progressively finer sanding papers, a polishing cloth, or an agate burnisher to achieve a high-gloss, mirror-like finish.
3.  Add findings. Attach jump rings, chains, or ear wires to your finished silver piece to complete your jewellery.